Via Graça: o regresso de um ícone onde não se come apenas com os olhos

“OBSERVADOR”

Comida tradicional com um twist, receitas antigas e um chef mais novo do que o restaurante em si. O Via Graça voltou e não veio sozinho: no piso de cima está o 9b, dedicado ao fine dining.

garrafeira
Mesa de restaurante com vários pratos e copos de vinho

A história

A história do Via Graça está de tal forma interligada com o proprietário João Bandeira que, por vezes, é difícil perceber onde um começa e o outro acaba. Originalmente aberto ao público a 15 de dezembro de 1988, este é o seu projeto de vida, o mesmo onde assegura ter investido recentemente todas as poupanças. Foram precisos 800 mil euros para fazê-lo renascer após meses de obras e na companhia de um segundo espaço, o 9b, no piso de cima, dedicado ao fine dining — ambos os restaurantes abriram ao público no passado mês de outubro.

Há quase 32 anos, João Machado Dias, o dono original, passou à porta do prédio que viria a albergar o Via Graça na Rua Damasceno Monteiro. A ele coube a postura “visionária” que ditou a abertura daquele que ficaria conhecido como “um restaurante de elite à porta fechada”, essencialmente frequentado pelas classes jornalística e política, mas também por artistas.

Durante anos, o Via Graça concentrou-se num único piso, mas 1995 ditou a expansão do projeto que cresceu para o piso de baixo a pensar nos turistas que um dia bateriam à porta.

Excerto do “Observador” / by Ana Cristina Marques

77 thoughts on “Via Graça: o regresso de um ícone onde não se come apenas com os olhos

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