Um bastião dos sabores portugueses

“VERSA”

Nem só de espaços novos vive a capital. O Via Graça tem mais de 30 anos e continua a ser paragem obrigatória para um bom jantar tipicamente português.

Sala de refeições com vista para a cidade de Lisboa
Vista para a cidade

Passaram 34 anos desde que abriu portas e, desde então, o Via Graça já recebeu vários chefs, diferentes roupagens e até o restaurante de fine dining, 9B. No entanto, há algo que não se altera neste espaço que continua a oferecer uma das mais distintas vistas sobre Lisboa. Das grandes janelas, avistamos os telhados lisboetas, a ponte, o Tejo e o Cristo Rei.

Se ao almoço o sol tudo ilumina, ao jantar são as luzes de Lisboa que servem de cenário. Seja como for, a vista é sempre convite de regresso, assim como o menu.

sala de refeições com vista para a cidade de Lisboa. Quadro colorido pendurado na parede.
sala de refeições com mesas e cadeirões estilo vintage
sala de refeições com vista para a cidade de Lisboa
Garrafeira
Close up de mesa de refeições com vista para o Cristo Rei em Lisboa
Vista de sala de refeições à noite, com balcão em madeira e tons verdes
Vista noturna de sala de refeições glamourosa, com mesas e cadeiras em tons verdes, com vista para a cidade de Lisboa à noite.

O Via Graça é uma homenagem ao que é verdadeiramente nosso, português, oferecendo um menu com mais carácter e personalidade do que estamos habituados.

Começo a refeição com o tradicional couvert, que nos traz os sabores portugueses através do pão confeccionado no restaurante, o azeite de uma acidez equilibrada, o chouriço alentejano e a pasta de sapateira.

Em seguida, rendi-me à entrada de Tártaro do Lombo com tutano e batatas fritas (€18). Um prato que deslumbra pela perfeita união de sabores.

Entre o Bacalhau à Brás (€28), que parece ser o ex-libris do espaço, ou o Arroz de Lavagante (€45), a decisão tornou-se difícil. Decidi-me pelo arroz e não houve arrependimento. É delicioso e inevitavel que se rape a travessa (não é muito elegante, mas não se quer desperdiçar).

E porque uma boa refeição só termina com uma sobremesa, escolho provar duas das várias que se destacam na carta. O inigualável Leite Creme (€7) e o Aviso (€7) que é um doce da casa que não dececiona.

Vista de sala de refeições glamourosa, com mesas e cadeiras em tons verdes.

Com Lisboa aos pés, este restaurante de tradição mantém-se bem vivo após 30 anos de serviço e claro que só poderia ser pelas melhores razões, as mesmas que têm vindo a fidelizar tantos clientes e a fazer deste um espaço a revisitar pelos próximos 30.

Excerto do “VERSA” / by Inês Barros Rodrigues

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